I have a 1996 chev 4.3 v6 that starts and runs great until it warms up then it starts to miss fire but still starts good. Any thoughts on what might be causing this problum? Plugs, wires,fuel filter and fuel pump are new.

I have been trying to find the source of a persistent squeak on my TJ. I have had the brakes done, universal joints checked and It still squeaks. The squeak starts in weather from -20C to +10C, and can vary in pitch and loudness. Normally only at speeds over 10 mph and quiets down when braking. I have even shut the jeep off while driving to determine if it is engine or not. Still squeaked when I shut the engine off. I have no idea where to start looking. Any ideas? The squeak sounds like it is coming from the rear of the vehicle and seems to be linked to the rotation of the tires in the squeaks pattern.
Help.

My Grand Am has developed a "clicking" sound after my turn signal has turned off(the same sound made when the signal is actually on and blinking.) This "clicking" is intermittant. It almost always happens now and continues for 5 or 6 click to quite a while (15-20) and is quite rapid. The turn lamps do not light up when this happens.

Any idea of my problem?

Std transmission -- engine quits as speedometer needle jumps and goes to max reading. At times needle jumps back and forth, at times just flucuates slightly but engine does not quit. Lights still work during engine failure. sometimes it lasts only for a moment. sometimes longer. Sometimes have to restart engine with key. Have replaced speed sensor. Have cleaned battery ground. Problem still persists. Anyone help?

My Blazer has the problem of not starting whenever it feels like it. When it does start it runs fine and never shuts off. I have had it to 5 mechanics including GM factory service. My newest mechanic has it narrowed down to that the injectors are losing signal from the computer to fire. The computer has been changed the crank positioning sensor and the pass lock sensor. I'm hoping somebody has a thought on what else could make the computer lose the signal.

There is no power going to the fuel pump, I tested the relay and it's fine. Not sure what else it could be.
Any help would be great.

Also on that 96 saturn I forgot to mention it is a 5 speed and it will start if we pop the clutch and run fine, just wont start with the key.Took it to auto zone and had the battery and alternator checked and was told both were good. Thanks for any help

I have a 96 saturn sl that wont do anything when I turn the key, no clicking no nothing, radio works, lights work etc. Has a new battery and a new alternator, well about 6 months old. Just shelled out alot of cash on a new trans and clutch and hate to see the car just sit. any suggestions as what the problem might be?

I have a full size 92 Blazer. Started fine and drove a couple blocks then quit running. I have not been able to get it started again and have no indication of any type of electrical power. Battery is good, fuses good, has gas, checked our cables to ground and starter. Just cannot seem to locate any indication of a problem, but feel it's right in front of me... what am I missing?

I have a problem on my 1987 chevy suburban with 350.. In the morning when i start the truck up it starts with the up and down of the idle, And yesterday when i started my truck and let it run for half minute and went to start to drive i put it drive and pushed the gas pedel to go it would struggle like it was hesitating to go so i would push the gas pedel harder it would go...

I changed the intake manifold gasket that a mechanic forgot the two gaskets for the front and back of the motor so it was leaking oil. I also changed the distributer a couple months ago.

Iwould like some help please......
Thanks

Help
I have a 2004 chev cavalier thats clutch justs stays to the floor.
The master in the clutch was replaced because they said it was too new for the slave cylinder to go (85000 km). Well the same thing is happening after the master was replaced but it will be okay for a couple of weeks. If I just pump the clutch it will come back enough to just get it going for a bit then becomes slack again. I took it right to the chevy dealer they kept it for two days and said it was fine then 3 days later starts happening again. Does anyone have any ideas?? I am a girl and i know they think I'm whacked out but i'm not when it just goes to the floor all the time and does nothing. Someone said there may be particles that are plugging the lines left over from the old master and that I should have the whole system bled does this sound right to anyone?? I would appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks.

The truck starts fine when cold. When an errand is run, may be 2 miles may be 20, sometimes the truck won't start, does not turn over or make any noise, no clicking, nothing. After being cold for @ 15 minutes the truck will start.

Any ideas?

I have some transmission questions. First off, what transmission do I have in my car if the tr code # on the inside door pannel is TQQTT? Second question is a trouble shooting question. I have to rev the engine to around 3 grand on the tach before it will jump into gear. Then when I let off the accelerator it goes back out of gear. what could cause this. is it the tranny, torque converter, or a computer problebm? I'm clueless and really would appreciate your advice.

My S-10 has been acting really weird lately which brings me to believe i have more than one problem. the first problem is a strange noise almost a winding up or down noise when i reach about 55 or 60 mph and the noise continues until i almost come to a complete stop then it will come to a clunk and i wont hear it again for a while. secondly it has blown two gauge fuses and it acts as if it has no power and all electrical things start to go haywire. i found two wires for the tail lights that were scrapped off so i fixed them but it is still messed up. it actually came to a stop today and the battery has died so it will not turn over. i would like to know what this could be. possibly the distributor cap, the altenator, the battery. or maybe something i have not listed your help would be greatly appreciated and hopefully save me alot of money. thank you very much.

You can pull the switch out part way and the parking light will come on,
pull it out to the position for the parking lights and they go out.
You canpull it out all the way and the head lights come on, but
not the parking lights including the tail lights.
Bought a new switch and put it in, still does the same thing.

The check engine light came on, bought a diagnostics tester tool which decoded P0138 code--"02 Circuit high, voltage: Bank 1, sensor 2". Based on the "sensor 2" part of the display I surmise it is referring to the 2nd/aft oxygen sensor. However I could be wrong. The freeze-frame data on the tester lists the following additional data:

Fuel System 1, closed loop
Calculated load: 31.7%
Engine Coolant temp: 176 degrees
STFT bank 1: 1.5%
LTFT bank 1: 3.9%
Intake manifold pressure: 27.1 in.hg
Engine RPM: 2,628
Vehicle speed: 32 mph

If anyone can help decode this string of data so as I can turn off the indicator and get this bomb to pass smog test I will greatly appreciate it.

Many thanks,
Nick

Can someone help with starting problems on 2002-2003 chevy suburban 65,000 miles .. it starts on the first try on starting it has trouble.. and lately it has it has started on first try but it stumbles to try to run and then revs up and runs. But before this i can turning the key and try to get it started it will turn over for 10 seconds and will not start to run like if i took the fuel pump relay was pulled out.

i was wondering what could cause this problem- worn relay, bad pump, bad fuel pressure or could it be something in the ignition, bad coil or wires,


i changed the spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator

would like some help thank you

I bought a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L 4x4. It ran great for about 3 weeks then one day I turned the key to start it and all of the power shut off in the vehicle.
I replaced the negative ground cable and was able to get the engine to turn over, but it still will not start. So far I have replaced the entire ignition system, including new plugs(pre-gapped and confirmed gap), new over-sized wires, pick-up coil, coil, starter relay, distributer cap and rotor, all of the square blue plug-in relays are new, the ECU for the ignition system has been replaces, most of the sensors I can thing of(crank-shaft position sensor included) have been checked out and they are all good or new. Fuel pump, fuel injectors and O rings, and the fuel filter are new. That's just a small list of over $700 in parts that have been replaced. AND the timing was also checked.
The only thing we did figure out is the clicking in one of the blue relays. When you remove the relay, the fuel pump works and the ignition system is getting spark, but still will not start. When the relay is plugged in, the relay clicks when you finish trying to turn it over but there is no spark and no fuel. The problem with the relay has been traced to an Orange/Black wire which ties into many different things in series and I am not about to replace everything that wire comes into contact with.

I have had 2 mechanics check it out, plus myself(a diesel mechanic), nobody can figure out the problem and we are all close to giving up.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Over the past month I've found an extreme amount of oil saturating the air filter. What causes this and is there an economical fix.